Again, my system is still having hard drive issues so no pictures posted yet, but I've taken them so they'll be up shortly.
This step was fairly straightforward once I looked at other builders' sites to see how things were supposed to go together, but the wording in the plans sure was mysterious! I had a few issues here and there. First, despite being very careful with the kerfs on the lower longerons, I heard a few cracking noises as I put things together. I sloughed some flox into each kerf once the layup was done so I doubt there will be trouble, but if I had known exactly how this step was going to go I would have steam-bent the wood.
This is a really straightforward process and doesn't even require steam. If you have hot enough water (I can tap the furnace drain for a 180 degree feed, just have to let it run a bit to get clean) you just hot-soak the section you want to bend for about 10 seconds, take it out, bend it and hold it a little FARTHER than you want the bend, let it cool and dry, and the wood will hold its shape. It's a good idea to clamp it down for a day to completely dry out and get back to the same humidity level as your shop - you don't really want all that moisture trapped in the longerons - but you don't even cover them in this chapter it's not hard to do. Believe it or not, if you do have access to steaming-hot water (even a kettle-full is fine) this is actually faster than making all the darned kerfs. Oh well. Don't blame me if you try it and it doesn't work - I didn't actually DO this. Just wish I had.
I also made an executive decision on the BID tapes, and used one tape on the inside corner between LWX and LWY, rather than two. There's no trick to this. You just set up a BID tape long enough to span both lengths, then cut about halfway into it right where the corner will go. The top half bends around the corner, and the bottom pieces overlap in a triangle. It's theoretically stronger than two separate tapes, not that it matters. It was just faster.